Discover the past at Fort Santiago Manila

Nestled deep “inside the walls,” within Intramuros in the heart of bustling Manila is a fort that stands proudly as a testament to the Philippines’ rich history and the tough resilience of the Filipinos. It is where the past now co-exists with the present. This is Fort Santiago.

Walk through the gates and you are diving into the heart of the country’s complex past. From colonial rule under the Spaniards and the Americans to the Japanese occupation during World War II, its walls have stood witness to centuries of conflict, change, and transformation.

Today, it remains a cornerstone of the country’s heritage, with its distinct architecture that blends Spanish, Filipino, and Chinese styles.

A fort built by the Spanish conquistadors

Fort Santiago was earlier a palisaded structure of logs and earth built by Rajah Soliman on the settlement of what was then known as Maynila. However, the Spanish colonizers, under Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi, recognized the mouth of the Pasig River that flowed into Manila Bay as a strategic location. To protect their newly established city of Manila, they built Fort Santiago as a defensive fortress in 1571.

Over the centuries, various colonizers and occupiers have used the fort as their headquarters, including the British, American, and Japanese. It was only after the destruction wrecked during the Battle of Manila in 1945 and the defeat of the Japanese that the fort was used as a depot by the U.S. Transportation Corps.

It was turned over to the Philippines government in 1946. They declared the fort a Shrine of Freedom in 1950, a memorial to the victims of World War II and the sacrifices of the Filipino people.

Getting to and around the fort

It is a shame that we could not get to spend the time this place required of us. While the hot sun above did influence our decision, it would have enhanced our experience if we had researched the place a bit more.

It may be worth your time and money if you were to check in at the visitor center and opt for a guided tour for a more captivating and engaging journey into the fort’s past, especially if you are short-pressed for time. In hindsight, our one big regret is that we did not avail the services of a guide.

Alternatively, if you would still like to discover the fort by yourself, then ask for a map of both Intramuros and Fort Santiago at the visitor center and follow it to the ‘T’. That should help you better understand what you are seeing, while also ensuring you do not miss any of the highlights.

Step back into the past

As an easily accessible getaway to the Philippines’ past, Fort Santiago is like sitting through a fascinating history lesson. It lets you experience its fascinating blend of Spanish, Filipino, and Chinese styles in its architecture, its varied historical significance, and its rich culture through the centuries.

From its beautiful stone walls and well-manicured courtyards to the impressive bastions that offer panoramic views of the Pasig River and Manila City, Fort Santiago stands out for its uniqueness, unlike any other part of the city that we experienced.

Plaza Moriones is your first sight of what is to come

It is your first sight of what encompasses Fort Santiago. Even before you have reached the visitor center, gone under the gates of Fort Santiago, or walked on the ramps along Baluarte de Santa Barbara. Plaza Moriones is named after the Governor-General of the Philippines in the 19th century, Don Rafael de Izquierdo, who was also known as the Count of Moriones. Back in the day, this picturesque plaza used to be an open promenade that the public could use. However, the earthquake of 1863 not only destroyed Fort Santiago but also effectively closed it to the public.

The well-preserved Baluartillo de San Francisco Javier

The Baluartillo de San Francisco is a small, yet well-preserved bastion. It is named after Saint Francis of Assisi, patron saint of the chapel within its proximity. While it offers fantastic views of the Pasig River, it also has significance in the history of the Philippines and its fight for freedom. It is within this bastion that José Rizal, a national hero, was held prisoner. He would eventually be executed in 1896.

The defensive Reducto de San Francisco Javier

The Reducto de San Francisco Javier is another small defensive structure of Fort Santiago. Named after Saint Francis Xavier, it was built in 1773 to defend against attacks from the seaside while also doubling up as a storage area for ammunition and food supplies. It now houses a chapel for Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Ruins of the American Barracks

When the Americans ruled the Philippines, they used Fort Santiago as their military base. To house the many American troops that were stationed there, they proceeded to build barracks for them. However, with independence from the Americans, the barracks fell into disrepair. It was only in 2017 that the Philippines government decided to retrofit the ruins. Today, it serves as an open-air exhibition space.

Fort Santiago Gate and its two baluartes

It is from the Puerta Real, or the “Royal Gate”, that your true exploration of the inner sanctum of Fort Santiago begins. It is also one of the most iconic and photographed sites within the fort. As you walk under its imposing gate, look up and you will see a relief of Santiago Matamoros, better known as Saint James the moor-slayer, carved in wood. The architecture is in the true Spanish colonial style of its time, with stone walls and a variety of decorative elements adorning the entrance.

While you are admiring the gate, have a careful look at the bridge over the moat. While not a drawbridge as you would expect, it does not lead directly to the entrance of the fort. Turns out that it was intentionally built this way, so that when the enemy came to attack, it would take them just that much bit longer, thereby giving the Spanish troops enough time to plan their next course of action.

Immediately after you have passed below the gate, on either side are two baluartes or bastions – the Baluartes de San Miquel on the left and the Media Baluarte de San Francisco on the right.

Plaza de Armas – the open courtyard

Once you are within the fort, the first sight that greets you is a well-manicured open ground surrounded by trees and ruins of the old military barracks – the Plaza de Armas. This central courtyard once served as a military drill ground under the Spanish.

The shrine for a national hero

Besides the Plaza de Armas is a former military barrack that once incarcerated one of the country’s national heroes within its cells until his execution in 1896, Dr José Rizal. Also known as the Museo ni José Rizal Fort Santiago, the Rizal Shrine has now been partially reconstructed and converted into a shrine to honor him and his lifework. It is home to several of his personal belongings, books, manuscripts, and historical artifacts.

The imposing Baluarte de Santa Barbara

At the tip of Fort Santiago, by the Pasig River, is the imposing and strategic Baluarte de Santa Barbara. It is an iconic vantage point within the fort. Which is what the Spanish would have thought too. So, they proceeded to fortify it with canons on top, while the storage rooms below were used to keep their arms and gunpowder.

The dungeons and the white cross

Originally built as storage rooms below Baluarte de Santa Barbara, they were converted into prison cells, and would, centuries later, be a grim reminder of the hardships that prisoners had to undergo, including José Rizal and several American soldiers captured during WWII.

A sad reminder of how cruel war can be is that while the cells were meant to house about one hundred inmates at any given time, there were more than six hundred decomposed bodies, forcibly cramped inside the cells, which were discovered after the Battle of Manila. Their remains now lie in a mass grave under a white marble cross next to the dungeons.

Getting to and into Fort Santiago

Barring a couple of rides that we took on the jeepney just for the thrill of it, the easiest way to move around town is to simply order a Grab taxi. While prices are not fixed, they can surge especially during peak hours, which we found is very convenient.

Once you reach the entrance to Fort Santiago, you will need to pay an entry fee of PHP 75 per visitor. Students and senior citizens are charged a discounted fee of PHP 50.

The fort is open on all days of the week, from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm.