Explore a unique cultural park anywhere in the world, or hell – Haw Par Villa

Before the glitz and glamour that Singapore is renowned for today, its population and visitors kept themselves entertained with simple things in life. Like visiting the zoo, heading to the bird park, or simply going to hell. Welcome to Haw Par Villa.

Getting warmed up for a unique experience

I know Singapore’s weather can be weird at times. Nice and sunny one day, and then a heavy downpour the very next day. I thought I could handle the hot and humid weather this time round, especially knowing that the city had been experiencing some of its highest temperatures in a long while. Not while I was there anyway. Nah! Singapore couldn’t do that to me.

It did. On that one day when I chose to step out to search for a new travel bag, the weather decided it was going to shower me with all the sunshine and warmth, leaving me, well, hot under the collar, sticky all over, and cussing under my breath.

That is when, in a moment of brilliance, my girlfriend suggested I go to hell. If I was going to hell, then I wasn’t going alone. No sir. She was coming along too. And that is how we found ourselves at the gates of hell or Haw Par Villa.

A balm with a quirky background

It is known for its over 1,000 intricate statues and 150 giant dioramas depicting several Chinese mythology, folklore, legends, history, and illustrations of various aspects of Confucianism. It is the most unusual theme park spread across 8.5 hectares of precious land outside the main city limits, on the southwest coast of Singapore.

While the park is devoted to the netherworld, its history is very much a part of this world. And surprisingly, its origins can be traced to something that we have all used, or continue to use, at some point in time or the other – Tiger Balm. I have three or four of them lying around in various cabinets throughout my house right now.

In 1926, two Burmese-Chinese brothers, named Aw Boon Haw (Gentle Tiger) and Aw Boon Par (Gentle Leopard), moved from Burma to Singapore with their business best known for making a soothing balm known as Tiger Balm.

Many years later, in 1935, Boon Haw bought a piece of land along Pasir Panjang Road. Because the site was in front of a hill and facing the Singapore Strait, it was considered good feng shui. For the next two years, he proceeded to build Har Par Villa as a gift to his younger brother, Boon Par. Named after both the brothers, the 6-room villa also had a garden, which they wisely named Tiger Balm Garden. While the gated estate was private property, the brothers decided to throw it open to the local population, in part to educate them on traditional values and ethics, but also promote Tiger Balm. So much for shrewd marketing. And so much for good feng shui.

Unfortunately, with the advent of World War II, the Japanese forces bombed the villa and then proceeded to occupy it. The brothers were forced to flee back to Burma, where, in 1944, the younger brother passed away. Once the war was over, the elder brother returned to Singapore, and seeing the ruined state of his villa, proceeded to demolish it all together. However, he restored the park by commissioning and installing hundreds of statues and dioramas meant to teach Confucious values. He would continue to expand on the theme of the garden until he passed away himself, in 1954.

Everyone goes to hell

Who doesn’t? Eventually? Or do we? Hmm. In any case, I digress.

Hell’s Museum, including its famed Ten Courts of Hell, is what most people come to see. This is also the only section of the park where they charge you an entry fee. In its previous incarnation, this section used to be inside a 60-meter-long Chinese dragon. Unfortunately, the dragon is no longer around, having been demolished a long time ago. In its place, a fully air-conditioned centerpiece spread across 3,800 sqm has now come up.

While you are free to see the attractions any way you like, the staff recommended we start at the AV room where they play “A Journey of 300,000 years” on a loop with a short break at the end of each session. Of course, for those more inclined to let someone else do the talking, you can also always have a free guided tour. However, it is best to check the tour timing. Also note it is on a first-come, first-served basis.

Each of the stations touches upon various aspects of death and the afterlife. These include the cyclical concept of time and rebirth until we have absolved ourselves of our past karma, similarities between Chinese and Mexican altars, examples of a traditional Chinese wake, complete with a coffin and offerings at the altar, and even examples of how Singapore buried or cremated their ancestors in the past. There is also a station that quotes prayers and verses on life, death, and the afterlife from several religions.

However, the main attraction is the Ten Courts of Hell. Rooted in the age-old Buddhist belief that you “sow what you reap”, this station depicts vividly recreated gruesome scenes of people being tortured in a variety of ingeniously cruel ways. Too bad if you are a tax evader, disobedient and disrespectful child, philanderer, rumor monger, or worse, a walk through the 10 Courts of Hell should suffice to keep you on the straight and narrow for the rest of your life in this world. Who’s to know what is in store for us in the afterlife?

There is plenty more to keep you engaged

Depending on how much time you would like to spend, there are several other attractions. “Journey to the West” lets you explore the adventures of the Monkey King through the many dioramas. “Dragon World” lets you immerse yourself in Chinese culture with several dragon sculptures that adorn the park. You can also lookup more on the Aw brothers at the Tiger Balm pavilion, including the origin of the balm. There are also monuments dedicated to brothers and their parents.

While you are there, keep an eye out for the famous tiger car on display, complete with a tiger head up front. Based on a 1925 Buick, it must be among the best forms of marketing to promote a brand. Why, even its horn sounded like a tiger’s roar. The car’s plate number is also considered auspicious in Chinese culture.

However, if all of this feels too much for you to soak in, why not take time off to feed the terrapins and fish at the ponds? There are small tables that have been kept at strategic points with feed for them. Simply pick up one or two packs and put your money in the honesty box. Yes, you read that right. After spending time understanding all that you may suffer in the afterlife, the last thing you want to be punished for is not having paid for the fish feed.

The way to hell

Haw Par Villa is at 262 Pasir Panjang Road, Singapore. While the park has seen better days, between the 1950s and 1990s, it still evokes fond memories of another time, especially among Singaporeans of a certain vintage.

If you plan on going to hell anytime soon on your next visit to the city-state, then I suggest the most convenient way is to hop onto the MRT. The park is just a short walk away from Haw Par Villa station. There are also several buses. Of course, if you are in a tearing hurry, then a cab ride is the quickest.

While admission to the main park itself is free, there is a fee of SGD 18 for adults and SGD 10 for children over nine years if you wish to get into Hell’s Museum. You can also refer to their website for specific operating hours, depending on the day of the week you plan to visit.